Time, and a few moths: 2011-02-27

Saturday, 5 March 2011

1950's.....

There was nothing too revolutionary or out of the box for women’s fashion of the 1950s. There is only one silhouette; the hourglass, and it was shown off in either form fitting clothes or exaggerated shapes made with the help of petticoats, corsets, and brasiers. Although its design is based off of a menswear staple, the shirtwaist dress’ emphasis on the waist, small rounded shoulders, and the bust is anything but masculine. Both casual and dressy versions of the shirtwaist dress were staples in a woman’s closet from the time Dior introduced the “New Look” silhouette in 1947.

1950s shirtwaist dresses were worn with petticoats underneath to increase the skirt’s volume, and girdles to make the waist even smaller, creating a very dramatic look. They could also be worn mor casually without any petticoat, such shirtwaists were referred to as house dresses.

The sexier option for women’s dress was the wiggle or pencil skirt. The shape of the wiggle skirt is high and tight pleated waist, form fitting through hips, and slightly tapered through the knee.

Cardigan sweaters have never really been out of style because they’re so practical, but in the 1950s cardigans became a staple since they could be worn well with any style skirt. Cardigans became more decorative and elaborate with lots of beading details, specialty buttons, and designs. Helen Bond Carruthers and Bonnie Cashin were two designers who were known for their show stopping cardigans.

Friday, 4 March 2011

1940's ....

The 1940s saw two distinctive styles in women’s clothing. From the beginning of World War II in 1939 till the dawn of the New Look in 1947, women’s dresses were knee-length and featured padded shoulders - one of the few adornments in clothing that was otherwise simple, thanks to wartime rationing. Sportswear became more common and women used a lot of ingenuity in mixing separates to make a wardrobe seem more diverse than it was. Homemade accessories and elaborate curls allowed women to show their flair without expense or waste. Hats, especially made from fabrics recycled from older pieces, went wild.

Silhouettes were austere, but even in suits or factory overalls, curls and bright lipstick kept the look feminine. With jackets shorter, the peplum became hugely popular, helping to narrow the hips while showing off a trim waist. Clothes were simple and practical, but women still managed to look attractive even during the hardest days of the war.

With the war over and materials available again, the Paris couturiers, who had been sidelined during the occupation of France, once again took the fashion helm. Christian Dior pioneered the New Look, which featured a nipped waist, longer lengths and fuller skirts, with yards and yards of fabric used and a more classically feminine image created. The women who had come to love the simplicity of the wartime styles protested, but this time, Paris won.

For a young, unmarried woman, time off work was time for fun, even with few men around. Evening dresses were still long, but not nearly as elaborate as in former decades, even for the wealthiest members of society. Formal gowns were rarely worn at the height of the war. Even the Oscars shunned formal attire, with attendees wearing cocktail dresses and even suits instead.

When women went dancing, the preference again was for the knee-length rayon dresses worn during the day. These dresses were best for swing and jitterbug dancing, exuberant dances popular because they allowed everyone to let off steam in an uncertain time. The stocking shortage meant that women wore leg makeup, and some did indeed paint lines down their legs to look like seams, as is often shown in films. Women compensated for the simple dresses and lack of stockings with bakelite jewelry and fake flowers in their hair, adding color and verve to a dark time.

Although the classic 1940s look is the wartime style, from the curls and hats down to the ankle-strap shoes, the postwar look held sway through the 1950s. Women’s fashion would not regain that much comfort and practicality until the clothing revolution of the 1960s. However, what the women of the 1940s had forged was not forgotten. Trousers never went completely out of fashion again. Women, having had a taste of the working life, fought hard to stay in the workplace.

Thursday, 3 March 2011

What I love......

I love ….. old smelly books, cupcakes, beautiful things,the salty smell of the ocean and to feel the wet sand under my feet, a good cappuccino, pastels,every mouthful of mugg & bean carrot cake, a glorious sunset, driving on the open road with the wind in my hair, singing out loud with a favourite song, a moonlight swim,good food, good conversation, enjoying a glass of good Cape Town wine, a real South African braai, climbing into a freshly made bed, a luxurious blanket on a cold night, roasting marshmallows on an open fire under the stars, a quiet moment by myself, an intimate moment with God, a beautiful pair of stilettos,playing with my dogs, working hard and relaxing well, being captivated by a good book, travelling to foreign places … coming home …. the sound of rain … the first rays of a new day dawning,exquisite lingerie, shopping ,modelling, roadtrips,Toblerone ,Mojitos,Cuban music, Vivaldi,tanning, helicopters,corsets,lace,my tatoos,pin-ups,poetry,ancient history,kissing,the beach,sundowners,candle-light bubble baths,B&W photography,vintage clothing,laughing… . I am open, funny, witty, bright, rude, naughty, wrong, loyal, different, brave, outspoken, liberal, totally unique, sexual, tenacious, notorious, zaney, kind hearted, temperamental, protective, stubborn. I love walking, either in the rain getting soaked or feeling the heat of the morning sun energise you as the day arrives! Perhaps the coolness of an evening breeze caress your face? I love doing mad crazy stupid spontaneous things that ‘ordinary’ people would just ‘tut’ at!…………………………………….. What I really, really miss is sitting on the floor by a real fire with a bottle of my favourite wine, a few tapas, olives, salad, etc. Music that compliments the mood and not overwhelms it, delicate incense and candlelight and simply talking about absolutely anything or listening to new ideas, opinions, or how’s the day been, with someone very special!… All night until the new dawn breaks and you didnt even realise where the time had gone?………………………………… Adore long walks on the beach rain or shine, sunsets, shooting stars, lots of cooking, music to rock the soul, intoxicating drawn out nights under the Southern Cross talking until the dawn! But if I were to choose, it would be a place where the Ocean meets the shoreline, the sunsets are low and long, The Southern Cross, stars and satellites look awesome! The sunrises are breath taking, the company is seamless the breeze is gentle and the vodka is on ice and never ending!…..

What do you love in life?

Wednesday, 2 March 2011

1930's ......

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Yesterday we loooked at fashion in the 1920’s, and today we look at the 1930’s.

In the 1930s, the boyish look of the previous decade gave way to a more feminine silhouette, which emphasized the natural form of the woman’s body. Bosom, waistline, and hips were clearly defined by the shape of the clothing. The waistline returned to its natural position.
Evening dresses were long or ankle-length, molded onto the body by means of bias-cutting. The bias cut enabled fabric to fall into a smooth vertical drape and to cling subtly to the body. Such dresses followed the body to the hips, where they flared out to the hem. Other common characteristics of evening dresses included bare-backed gowns and halter-type bodices. Gowns were sleeveless or had full, cape-like, or puffed sleeves.
In the early to mid-1930s, hair was still relatively short, usually waved softly, and with short, turned-up curls around the nape of the neck.
Many modern evening gowns with flaring hems will be appropriate for this period. Add beige stockings and character dance shoes or other low-heeled dress shoes.

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There was a general desire for elegant and sophisticated clothes in the 1930s. This came partly as a reaction against the wild and daring fashions of the 1920s, when women wore very short dresses, and partly because in times of financial hardship, such as the 1930s, people often try harder to appear well dressed and respectable. Nearly everyone, male and female, wore a hat or cap when going out, for instance, and men only sat in their shirtsleeves in the privacy of their own homes. Usually they wore a suit and tie, or jacket and trousers; even those with little money would try to have one suit for “Sunday best”. For women, clothes were closefitting and well cut, with hem lines coming below the knee in 1930s day dress. Many people still had their clothes made to measure, but there was a growing demand for a choice of ready made garments. Poorer people often bought their clothes second hand and would mend, darn or patch them rather than throw them away. Matching jackets and skirts were tailored in pure wool tweed and were warm and cosy in winter, worn with hand knitted or ready made woollen jumpers, cardigans or “twin-sets”. Leather coats, very soft, wool lined and dyed attractive colours, were popular too and quite cheap at about £5. For summer wear, there were the popular “Macclesfield” silk dresses, shirt waister style, with multi coloured delicate stripes. There were also cotton and linen dresses in plain, striped and floral materials in blue dress, black dress and in elegant evening dress. Evening or afternoon dresses were often made of pure silk crepe, chiffon, taffeta or velvet, cut on the cross to provide a fitting bodice and a flared skirt. “Ring” velvet was very fine and soft and so called because a width of it could be pulled through a wedding ring in. Although most clothes were made of natural fibres, artificial silk and rayon were available, but these were used for the cheaper clothes. Hats and gloves were a “must” for formal occasions such as attending Church, tea parties, even at formal lunch parties (when the hostess also wore a hat!) and of course at Wimbledon, which was then something of a fashion parade. One’s luggage always included a hat box - a round affair with a carrying strap. (Recollections written down by Kathleen Phillips, 1983) For most dinner parties and dances, evening dress would be required. Women would wear long dresses like an elegant long dress, elegant black dress or an elegant cocktail dress. Evening dress for men consists of full dress with a tail coat, or for less formal occasions of a dinner jacket or a 1930s suit. With a tail coat a white waistcoat and tie are usually worn; but an black waistcoat and tie are the thing with a elegant evening dinner jacket.

Tuesday, 1 March 2011

1920's......

Today, we look at the fashion of the 1920’s….

The silhouette of the 1920s was straight and angular and the boyish figure, with flat bosom and no hips, was the ideal. Waistlines dropped to the hip.
At the beginning of the decade, skirts were still long, almost ankle-length. It was not until 1924 that skirts really became shorter, reaching mid-calf even for evening wear. The shortest skirts of the decade, stopping just below the knee, appeared in 1926-1927. In the last few years of the decade, skirts often used panels, drapes, and pointed segments to achieve uneven hemlines. This led to a lengthening of the hemline by decade’s end.
Evening dresses were generally sleeveless, with deep V or U-shaped necklines. Decorations included beading, which sometimes covered an entire dress, as well as fringe and even feathers.
As skirts became shorter, necklaces, particularly strings of pearls, became longer. Tan or flesh colored stockings were popular.
Short hair was universally popular throughout the decade. Those who chose to retain their long hair wore it pulled back into deep waves over the ears. It was then coiled into a chignon or knot at the nape of the neck. Makeup was obvious, with red lips, powdered skin, and dark eyes.
To approximate the style of the period, look for a low-waisted or straight dress such as a “tank” style or “slip” dress. Add a long rope necklace—preferably pearls. Modern character dance shoes with a small heel are appropriate for this period.

1920's......

Today, we look at the fashion of the 1920’s….

Sunday, 27 February 2011

Endless Summer

As we are approaching the end of a very long, hot summer here in Cape Town, South Africa, I thought we would look at the one thing we ladies cannot do without this time of the year. The bikini. In 1940, french lingerie shop owner, Louis Reard, made a skimpy bather named after the Bikini Atoll nuclear tests in the Pacific (due to the devastating effect of women wearing it). Actresses like Ava Gardner (bottom), adopt this risque look. Alot has changed since then.